Best setting for HDMI/Resolution/Frame Rate

Dears,

What is the best setting for HDMI/Resolution/Frame Rate, etc...

Taking into consideration that majority of files are 1080P with 23.976 frame/s

Hady

 

In reality as long as you make sure that "Switch frame rate and resolution" is set in <Automatic frame rate> it doesn't really matter but if your display has a long sync time then it's best to set <HDMI mode> to the most common value of your files - so if most are 1080p 23.976 then set HDMI mode to "1080p 23Hz"

If sync time is not an issue then setting it to the native resolution of your display at 60Hz is fine.

Just to repeat, because it's very important - make sure "Switch frame rate and resolution" is set in <Automatic frame rate>.

 

Good morning,

I apologize if I intrude, I would just like to tell you about my experience .......

Surely, in my opinion, it is right to set the player for the automatic frequency change, then, I made some comparisons and here I explain better ........
If the TV has very high-performance electronics on board (for example I have a Sony KD-65 XE93), I tried to make the 1080p conversion (normal film in HD) for both the player and the TV, result: the does TV better.

For signals that already have the same panel resolution, which are already 4K, the problem does not arise .........

Same thing for the color space: bearing in mind that, whatever content you want to see, the TV "must always" convert the signal to the panel resolution and have an RGB signal (this work either does the electronics of the TV, or does it the source, in this case the player), well, even here, the electronics on board the Sony (high-end electronics) is higher than that of the player.

To finish and summarize, personally, the settings on the player are as follows:
Frame rate mode: Switch frame rate and resolution
Resolution: Ignore EDID off and AUTO for resolution
Color Setting: 10 Bit color depth, everything else on AUTO

I also did some tests, as well as visual tests, also with colorimetric probe and related software (I am not a professional calibrator but, I am doing it) and, for now, these are the settings that I have found better.

Of course, we should do these tests with probe, every time the Firmware changes but, I noticed that basically, I remain very similar.

Sorry again for the intrusion ...........

 

Hi there, sorry to bump this old thread up.
I've been wondering, what is benefit for turning on the auto frame rate and resolution?
I don't see any different to be honest, instead it always take time to change the resolution/frame rate at the start which causing 3-4 second black screen, and some of my movies has green screen problem when I turned the setting on.

Thanks.

 

The green screen problem was introduced with recent FW's and is an ordinary bug to be solved asap.
Most TV's do a better job upscaling 1080P to 4K than media players. That is the main reason for using auto-resolution.

Most people will see the negative effects of using the wrong frame-rate so auto-framerate is a real must for those. If you don't you could use P60 fixed instead.

 

Good morning everyone, I apologize enormously for the intrusion, I would like to have my say to see something more understood.

What I think is this:
a 4K HDR TV does a better job than the media player, only if it has at least decent electronics on board: this is because TV panels can only work in one condition: native panel resolution and RGB video signal.

If the electronics of the TV is poor and a signal already at native resolution arrives from the source, it (i.e. the electronics of the TV) must only convert the signal to RGB (I'm putting everything easier so that it can be understood) .
As I said if the electronics of the TV is scarce, it is necessary to make tests if it is better to have this conversion carried out on the TV or the media player, all to obtain the best result of what you have.

The same goes for resolution: if there is content with a resolution other than the native one of the panel, you have to experiment to see if it is better to have the conversion done on TV, or on the mediaplayer.

The matter is not simple, so I don't go into too much detail.

I can only tell you what my settings are with a Sony KD-65 XE9305 TV (which I think has one of the best electronics).

Frame rate mode: Switch frame rate and resolution
Resolution: Ignore EDID off and AUTO for resolution
Color Setting: 10 Bit color depth, everything else on AUTO

Sorry again for the intrusion, Andrea.

 

I agree. in prev fw, the setting I used will output the same as the video played. but with the later fw, I found the rec'd setting here will output 4k 444, even for 1080 materials. Personally I would rather have the tv doing the upscaling (even though my tv is just XE90). however, since i mainly watch uhd, I havent bothered to find out what settnigs I need to change.

re EDID, believe it needs to be "ignored" for 23.9hz

 

In fact, one thing that I noticed too, it is not possible to have a color component exactly as all UBD are coded, that is 4: 2: 0 .............

You always have a Y 4.4.4 and I don't know why .......
However, if I change the resolution, Zidoo allows me to play movies in 1080p.
I know why, on the TV it appears at the beginning, both the resolution and the fps.

 

I was told 4k 420 10bit is not a legal hdmi mode

 

Forgiveness if I ask, maybe it's my oversight but,
Discs and therefore 4K movies, as they are encoded .....

 

It's legal at 4K50/60 but not 4K23/24/25/30

 

hello,


UHD films are in 4.2.0 because it has the highest compression rate this allows you to have an uhd movie on 1 disc for example, but the HDMI 2.0 standard does not support 4.2.0 10bit below 30Hz.

I use the following options and the zidoo device will switch to the best mode




See you

 

what abt 4:2:2?

 

4:2:2 is only legal at 12-bit (all frame rates).

 

what do you guys think about convert 4:2:0 to 4:4:4 or 4:2:2, does it really work?

 

My intuition says leave it as it is on the BD being 4:2:0 and have all the upscaling done by the TV but that is not what the electronic market is going for.
Most equipment has a hard preference for using 4:4:4 format, which they will do also when using Auto. In practice this works fine.

Personally use Auto which does its job for me.

 

thanks Nice Monkey, i have tested it, there are no difference between them.

 

4:2:0 is the lowest level of chroma pixel encoding, so going up to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 makes no difference - there's no "conversion" as such. Luma encoding is identical in all cases.

If you output at 4:2:0 you're stuck with 4K50/60 which needs pulldown on a 4K23 source (as most are) so you should always try to output 4K23 at 4:4:4 (particularly with 1295/6 boxes since 4:2:2 handled internally at 8-bit which gives chroma banding on 10-bit sources).

Some other SOCs, such as HiSilicon and Tegra don't have this bottleneck at 4:2:2.

 

Thanks for making it clear.

 

Hello guys. I'm reading this post because for some reason I'm unable to passthrough video resolution as per the file. I have no idea what to change in my settings so that the upscaling is done in my Samsung QLED. Before this last firmware upgrade, I had the upscaling made by the tv but I had to reset the player and I have not been able to make it work this way again. Please help.