EDID thread (RTD1619DR players)

Thanks again, I had communicated with Anthem Support a couple of years back regarding what I thought was an issue with the Anthem where when after switching inputs, sometimes there would be no signal. It was random between my Direct TV, Canadian Cable, PC, Zidoo and Xbox Series X and a re-boot of the Anthem always fixed it. After some testing (pulling all inputs and trying one at a time, etc), they determined that it must have been my Display causing the issue, the Samsung QN90A so I put up with it happening every once in a while. Now that I have the Hisense (and yep it does DV) the issues persist where switching inputs sometimes result in no signal and it seems to be worse. Well I guess that proves it wasn't the Samsung
Back to this issue though, I did as you said and it worked.......for a while. I thought I was good but about the third time cycling everything off and starting fresh, the issue came back....even with the custom EDID set in the Zidoo. When the Zidoo and the JVC didn't recognize HDR I then rebooted the Anthem and voila the JVC recognized the HDR from the Zidoo and the Zidoo also showed BT2020. This seems to be an easy fix but a PITA, I remember Anthem Support saying (about the no signal issue) the Anthem doesn't process the image it just switches it so it doesn't make changes that could result in a no signal....well guess what, it's not doing that very well
Looks like I'm off to contact Anthem Support about this but just in case we end in a stalemate, might you have any other suggestions that I could try, something like an HD Fury or a splitter?

 

Yeah, that's utter hogwash from Anthem - Displays simply have an EDID and that's the end of it - assuming it's connected directly to a source, that EDID is just read by the source defining what the display can and can't do.

When you stick other intermediate devices in the way, AV amps, soundbars, processors etc, they also have an EDID - with an AV amp it's ostensibly to define the audio codecs they process, but will also include video properties as well.

So now the AV amp must combine the EDID from the display with its own in a way that makes sense to the source and not remove any functionality of either the amp or the source, but also modify it so that any functionality of the display that isn't supported by the amp isn't passed along and vice versa. And all this in 256bytes (that's bytes - not KB or MB!!)

Sound bars for some reason are notoriously crap at this and often truncate EDIDs, but the big boys (Denon, Yamaha et al) seem to have the hang of it.

Unfortunately a lot of the more, shall we say, esoteric brands, are also a bit haphazard in their interpretation of the standard and of course it's more complicated when you have two different sinks (displays).

There's no way the Samsung EDID was wrong and equally with the Hisense or JVC, but I can understand the difficulty in handling two display EDIDs - although if not run concurrently, it's not rocket science.

Yes, I think an HDFury would help on the output of the Anthem - you could then present one single EDID to the Anthem on one output and split the output with the HDFury - there are a few ways to do it and one upshot is you could use Dolby Vision on the PJ which is well worth the effort.

It'd be worth either joing their Discord Server or one of the threads on AVS and asking if anyone has a similar problem and has solved it in this way, but see what Anthem say first - it seems to simply be a case of the Anthem not reading the EDIDs correctly and processing each one in turn - although it's possible the TV is presenting its EDID even when in standby which could be complicating the issue.

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation.....so much going on with HDMI now adays I have joined the HDFury Discord and have been informed that the 800.00 Cdn plus tax :O 8k VRRoom would/should fix the issue. I have also emailed Anthem Support and am still waiting for a reply. Last night I switched from the TV to the JVC and watched a movie and all worked fine so it's a random thing....but still a pain.

 

Completely agree with that - HDMI is massive pain these days - goal posts almost seem to move on a daily basis!!

 

Just thought I would come back and mention another weird thing happening. The last few days the projector and Z9X have detected HDR and worked as they should......but now.....my TV turns on by itself a couple of times while watching a movie with the projector . I don't have any CEC settings enabled in the TV or the Anthem lol. Dunno how or where the TV is getting the signal to turn on (might have something to do with what you mentioned above...that the TV could still send an EDID even in standby) but instead of pulling the HDMI out (going to the TV from the Anthem) while watching the projector, I bought a smart plug that the TV power plugs into that I can turn off so the TV doesn't even sit in standby mode, this has fixed the issue. Good times.....

 

CEC is the work of the devil and should never be used....

If it is CEC causing this, then one of these will kill it dead:

https://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adap...07/hdmi-cec-less-adapter-female-to-male-p7299

It physically disconnects Pin 13 which is the pin of the devil!!

Search CEC Blocker on Amazon...

 

Haha! - that's a new one Mark - think it's a bit repetitive though - the whole forum knows CEC is the work of the Devil but I feel sure you can come up with a better name for PIN 13 lol

 

Wow, I did not know that such a device existed ordered one, thanks again!!

 

I own a Samsung TV S90C77. Previously I got help here in this thread on how to configure the EDID settings so that everything is displayed correctly. Since I had to reset my Zidoo to factory settings, I had to re-configure the settings. Since the TV can only handle HDR content, I set Custom EDID to off. Unfortunately, all HDR movies are being played quite dark, but the message that HDR (whether HDR10+, HDR10 or HDR) has been detected appears in the top left corner of the TV.
What am I doing wrong?

 

Hello, a newb here in this forum. I'm jumping in now with adding a previously owned Zidoo Z9X Pro into my system. I've been able to do a quick test hooking in by plugging into the front HDMI on my Marantz AV7704 processor which feeds to an Epson 5040ub. It took a couple tries to get it to display but eventually did. I tested some 3D iso movie rips and it played them fine. Fast forward a couple days and now I turn on the Zidoo, but get the no signal image. I'm guessing it's all handshake issues as I've temporarily tried the Zidoo on a newer Sony tv I have with DV and everything works fine.
So here's my question after reading a bunch in the thread as well as the "recommended settings" thread. Since the Epson 5040 only does up to 300 MHz should I use the BT.2020 LLDV edid?
Or should I be using a custom one for the Epson? I found a post from Nov 27, 2023 where a custom edid was provided for someone with an epson 5040, could I use that one?
I've attached my current edid if it helps.(granted it's still from the front HDMI port on processor and not sure if that makes a difference).

 

You should only use a custom EDID if you have a specific reason to change some feature of your display and/or AVR/amp - for example if you want to output Dolby Vision to a non Dolby Vision display.

Front HDMI ports on receivers tend to have restricted features so I'd first try plug in at the back. Not saying the front port is knobbled, but I've had Denon amps with restricted front HDMI ports and Marantz are from the same stable.

 

Yes, they are normally configured as HDMI-out such the case of my Denon X6700H dedicated for camera recording.

 

I thought the front HDMI might be part of my handshake issue. I'll get everything hooked up permanently this afternoon running into back HDMI ports.
Further questions:
1. Since I do want to be able to output DV and the Epson is non-DV, should I use the BT.2020 EDID in the Zidoo or request a custom EDID for my setup?

2. Or instead of fussing with EDID change, would it be easier to use the VS10 engine for HDR & DV?

 

The BT.2020 LLDV included will be fine - you just have to be able to manually switch the Epson into its HDR mode when you output LLDV.

Also worth experimenting with VS10 modes to see which you prefer. Don't dismiss VS10 SDR as this can work really well with projectors - depends how well they handle HDR.

 

Again, much thanks for your sharing your knowledge & advice!

 

I have a Samsung OLED TV. Is it possible to watch DV content in a good quality?

 

Hellfire, absolutely yes!

Native Dolby Vision looks stunning on a Samsung.

But... You need an HDFury device to send an HDR10 SEI message to switch the Sammy into HDR mode because, common to most TVs and unlike a lot of PJs, you can't manually switch them into HDR mode.

 

What would be the most favorable solution? Which HDFury do I need?

 

I have an anthem MRX-1140, older JVC 4k (not true 4K) projector and a Sony 4K TV and what I do is use the output from my Anthem to a A Ezcoo splitter which spoofs the edid
so it always looks like it supports 4k Dolby Vision, Atmos and all the colour profiles. its inexpensive $36 Canadian, if your using dolby vision to your projector you will have to
set it to HDR manually. if you want to get around this you can use an HD Fury even the arcana works and it will send a signal to switch on the HDR

I don't think the Anthem is at fault as it just passes through the video without altering it
the signal is just duplicated to the other hdmi ports the whole chain gets screwed as there are 2 different edids in the chain, the 2 ports are not discrete

 

I'd recommend a Vertex 2 if you're sticking with 4K for the foreseeable future, or, if not, a Vrroom.

I believe you can use an Arcana as a set and forget device but the Vertex/Vrrooms are so much better for diagnostics and dicking about with.

The key is being able to send a custom HDR signal only when LLDV is received - the older devices (Vertex 1, integral 2) can send an HDR signal but not on demand - it's either on permanently or off which isn't ideal.