Recommended Settings and other useful stuff for RTD 1619DR Players (HT PDF Updated June 2026)

Morning! Blood tests showed nothing, seems a Sinus issue that's not going away - I was fine overnight after a Sinufed and a couple of Paracetemols but pain is back again as I write this and b4 I take dog for a walk and another cold morning to boot Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Thanks for thinking about me and would confirm I'm no Dctr Who! lol

 

If the tests found nothing serious, you can breathe a sigh of relief and see how it goes in a few days, otherwise try to see a specialist.

 

hi all
they just update the posterwall it looks way better
there is any way it can shows the aspict ration?befor you play the movie?
specially if you have lens on the projoctor it will be so much help for us
thanks.

 

hey guys new valerion pro 2 owner here and want to watch everything in dv. what is the correct setting? thnx

 

vs1o for all content under HDR setting

 

Uh well, VS10 is indeed great for using the Dolby VS10 engine to convert and output to displays that are either not capable of HDR or Dolby Vision. But if your display is capable of DV, @george kmb , then you should see an option under HDR output for Dolby Vision Low Latency. If so, then give that option a try... everything literally is then output in Dolby Vision for you.

 

thanks man, my projector is indeed dv capable so i'll give it a try.

 

Hi, I have several questions,I hope you can help me.
I have an Epson 9400 projector and the Z9X. One of my questions is about the advanced settings. -What does Performance Mode mean and if it's on?
-Playback Performance Mode and if it's on?
-Auto 29.97/59.94Hz playback. Is it on?
-Auto 1080p 24Hz playback. Is it on?
I've updated it to the latest version. Is it a good idea to do a factory reset after an update?

 

Ok.. I started mucking about in settings and am now confused about what the current best practices are for settings between a Z9X and the newer JVC models. I don't think I need to mess with custom EDID and am happy with the projector's tone mapping capabilities... Have been running things on AUTO for awhile but am wondering about using VS10 for DV titles only and AUTO for everything else.

 

I don't think there are best practices here but there are a lot of variables to consider.

I've used JVC projectors for decades and ever since we developed the LLDV trick a few years ago and the Z9X came on the scene, I've used full time LLDV.

On my old projector (X7000) that involved a static custom gamma curve but once dialled in, the pictures were stunning and because for 99% of content my HDMI mode didn't change (HDR mode, frame rate and resolution) I didn't get any HDMI resyncs for the most part. That was extremely important with that old PJ because the resync time was 15s upwards!!

On my new JVC resync isn't such a big issue - it's about 5s which is par for the course, but I still prefer not to have it.

I find that the image in LLDV from SDR, HDR10 and native DV content is much more pleasing than native - even compared to native HDR or VS10 HDR.

On my old JVC I used to use a 400nit LLDV EDID which allowed the Zidoo to tone map a lot more (ie from 400nits upwards) and the gamma curve in the PJ took care of below 400 - that worked really well.

With the new PJ, because the dynamic tone mapping is so good, I let the PJ do a lot of the heavy lifting as far as tone mapping goes, so I use a 1000nit EDID so the PJ tone maps to 100nit and the Dolby algo takes over above.

Best advice I can give is suck it and see. Have a play with settings.

And to be fair, the new boxes are a bit of a game changer in this respect because the HDR options are so flexible - every type of input can be individually adjusted to decide what and how it is or isn't converted - see below:

 

Thank you so much for the guides and files Mark!

I have one question, I am using your custom HDR gamma curve from the JVC pdf guide for my X7900, which looks amazing compared to anything I had before.
The thing is, I use a Zidoo Z9X 8K and I have options for 400nits and 1000nits, your guide just mentions "BT.2020 LLDV EDID", what does that reference too, 1000nits?

Then In your posts you mention that you used to use 400nits, was that with the uploaded gamma curve, does it even matter (does this send MaxCLL and the projector respects it?)?
Thanks in advance for the clarification!

 

The guide was written a few years ago and I never updated it...

The nits levels refer to those defined in the Dolby Block in the EDID - basically it's what tells the player the capability of the display, so a 400 nit block will tone map Dolby Vision above 400 nits and a 1000 nit will tone map after 1000 nits.

Obviously a projector can't get anywhere near either and that's where the gamma curve comes in. So Dolby Vision tone maps above the nits level defined in the Dolby Block and the gamma curve takes care of below - so roughly speaking - the Dolby Block tone maps above 400 nits say first and then the gamma curve picks up the slack between 100 and 400. It's not as clearly cut off as that, but you get the idea.

I always found with my X7000 that a 400 nit curve seemed to perform better, but it was marginal, so the best advice is to try both ways (all you need to do is swap EDIDs - the gamma curve stays the same) and see which you like best. If you have no preference, I'd use the 400 nit one.

 

Thank you for your reply, I tried both, it's hard to compare, I think I prefer the 1000nits output. But you have confirmed that the gamma curve is unrelated.

Your custom gamma curve looks much better than anything I was using before, but my room is very dark, and I think the profile is actually a bit too bright for my room, removing headroom for HDR.
I might look at adjusting the gamma curve, just have to check how hard it is and if I can do it without messing up the overall look, I just want to pull overall brightness a bit down, which should make HDR also look a bit more effective.

Also, in your guide, you have your lamp set to "low" in your LLDV profile, is this a mistake or did you actually use it like this? From what I have gathered, most people recommend "high" for HDR. I might try calibrating a low profile, as I think it should suffice in my room.

 

To be honest, if you wanted to pull brightness down using the gamma curve you'll actually end up with better tone mapping if you do it right because you can roll off the top more gently - if you open the file in a text editor you'll see it's only a set of 12 numbers (0-1023, ie 10-bit) with 0 and 1023 assumed and therefore omitted.

The steps aren't linear, it goes 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95%

The easiest way is to plot in excel then create a graph so you can see the curve.

No, low lamp is not a mistake. The best HDR a projector can produce is SDR so upping the lamp power isn't going to make a difference to specular highlighting because everything is tone mapped to SDR (lower in fact if you taking into account that diffuse white is now defined as 200nits in HDR rather than 100nits) - if your image is too bright and the lamp is on high, that's the first thing to do - turn it down. In all the years of using a JVC X7000 I never saw the need to for high lamp at all.

 

Thanks for the explanation. I tried your profile with Lamp: Low, and it really works for that, looks pretty similar to SDR.
I created a new profile for Lamp: High. I matched the brightness to your profile on low, but then slightly pushed the image darker. It really gives the image a massive push towards giving it an HDR look in a good way.

In case anyone wants to try (120" screen, 1600 lamp hours):

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With a new lamp and small screen (<110)", this would push it even further, it really pops, was a hint too dark for my setup:

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